From box to working unit
The unit goes behind the main switch in the meter cabinet and four wires connect to it according to the diagram. We recommend having this done by an accredited installer — it is work in a meter cabinet, and your insurance and installation standards depend on it. Send him this page; for him it is a job of about an hour. Below is exactly what happens.
The unit sits between the main switch and the circuit groups. One group is set to 'always on' — the fridge, freezer, wifi and emergency lighting are connected to it, and they keep working when the credit balance is empty.
The A4 diagram will be ready soon and will also be included in the box.
What your installer does
After that, with your phone
Which group on which channel
This is the standard layout. If you deviate from it, make a note — when you activate the unit you enter the correct name in the app for each channel, and that name determines what your guest will see.
| Channel | Group | When credit balance is empty |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Heating, air conditioning or boiler up to 16 A | off immediately |
| 2 | Kitchen | off after 15 minutes |
| 3 | Sockets and lighting | off after 15 minutes |
| 4 | Reserve | optional |
More than 16 A
Each channel switches up to 16 A. A hob, a flow heater or a charging point above that must never be connected directly to a channel. Such a group runs via an auxiliary contactor on the rail (25 to 40 A, coil 230 V): the group wire runs through the auxiliary contactor, and the box only switches the coil. For an inductive load, a damping filter must be connected across the coil contact.
The choice helper it automatically includes those auxiliary switches: each heavy appliance you select provides one.
What you need
- Space for 3 modules (54 mm) on the rail in the meter cabinet
- A network cable in the meter cabinet, or wifi on 2.4 GHz with a decent signal at that location
- Ferrules 1.5 to 2.5 mm², and a two-pole voltage tester
- Your phone with bluetooth on, logged into your account
If something doesn't work
| What you see | What it usually is |
|---|---|
| The cabinet stays dark | No power. Check the connection and the main switch. |
| The app can't find the cabinet | Bluetooth is off, or you're too far away. Stand within 2 meters of the meter cabinet. |
| No connection to us | Wifi too weak. A network cable is better; otherwise check that it's 2.4 GHz and the password is correct. |
| A channel won't switch | Input and output reversed. Check that channel. |
| The refrigerator cuts out during the self-test | That group is running through the cabinet anyway. Restore the wiring — this is the fault you need to find before your guest arrives. |
| 0 watts while something is on | That group is on a different channel than the name says. Update the name, or the wiring. |